Pick a date before the weather gets too warm to hike along a path winding through bewildering geology and hardscrabble history in a desert oasis.
Such a trail begins at China Ranch Date Farm Hiking, a short distance from the Nevada border and near the desert town of Tecopa, California, about an 80-mile drive southwest of Las Vegas. Hiking trails there are accessible to the public because of a partnership between the owners of the working farm — which sells date shakes and other goodies — and federal public lands managers with support from Amargosa River advocates.
April is the outer limit of comfortable weather for a hike along the China Ranch Loop and a side trail leading to a slot canyon in the Amargosa River basin. That combination covers about 4 miles round trip and takes hikers along Willow Creek, next to historical remnants from the Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad days, up and down a few moderately challenging hills, over a narrow section of the Amargosa River and into the shade of a slot canyon. The surrounding hills are packed with angles, curves, varying colors and stripes that will keep many hikers awestruck along the route.
A rare green spot
Wildlife sightings are more common in the China Ranch area because it’s an out-of-the-ordinary green spot with reliable water sources in North America’s driest desert.
Animals seek shelter among the willows, cottonwoods and mesquite bosques adjacent Willow Creek, which is what visitors first see and hear when they get on the China Ranch Loop at the end of a gravel parking lot near a tall information kiosk and a map of Amargosa River trails. The combination of paths is also referred to as Slot Canyon Trail by China Ranch.
Spring-fed Willow Creek is a tributary of the Amargosa River, which runs 185 miles mostly under the Mojave Desert’s surface. The river’s name refers to “bitter” in Spanish because of the water’s alkaline taste. The trails near China Ranch offer a rare glimpse of Amargosa water running at the surface.
Water is life in the desert, so the area is a magnet for wildlife. On a visit last month, creatures spotted near China Ranch included a greater roadrunner, Gambel’s quail, phainopepla, common ravens, white-crowned sparrows, side-blotched lizards, zebra-tailed lizards, a coyote and Amargosa pupfish.
The China Ranch Loop is a packed dirt trail that remains mostly flat until reaching, on the right at the fork, an abandoned building from the early 1900s that probably played several roles, possibly as the office of the paymaster for local mines, a general store and a saloon. Hikers can walk inside the structure and look through a window that frames part of the surrounding landscape.
A story to tell
Nearby, an informational sign tells part of the story of China Ranch, which has a long history of agricultural uses because of available water and the hard work of early settlers. According to a Bureau of Land Management sign, a worker named Quon Sing or Ah Foo settled in Amargosa Canyon and developed a farm after working for years in Death Valley’s borax mines.
The hiking path continues uphill and toward the Acme Siding area, where ore was loaded into Tonopah & Tidewater rail cars when the train ran from 1905 to the 1930s. From there, hikers follow the trail down the mesa to continue on a path beside remaining railroad remnants. The path becomes challenging at times in this area.
Vegetation along the hidden flow of the Amargosa River comes into view a short distance below where railroad tracks once ran. A final walk downhill leads to the Amargosa River, which is more of a stream.
After rock-hopping over the Amargosa River and possibly getting their shoes a little wet, hikers bear right toward a wide wash leading to the opening of a short slot canyon. The path turns and twists between towering rock walls and eventually is blocked by boulders too dangerous for most visitors to climb over.
Enjoy the slot canyon’s shade before retracing your steps back to China Ranch Date Farm, where a date shake might have your name on it. Other treats and gifts, including boxed dates harvested on-site, are also for sale in the farm’s store (open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, except on Christmas). The date groves are worth a visit, but be on the lookout there for coyotes.
Hiking in the China Ranch area, which isn’t far from Death Valley, is labeled dangerous May through September because of extreme heat. Check the weather forecast before heading out on any trail. Wear sturdy shoes, apply sunscreen and always carry plenty of water and snacks.
If you go
Getting to China Ranch is a big chunk of the fun. The rough and rugged geology stands out on so many day-trip roads from Las Vegas, whether that’s to Death Valley National Park, Avi Kwa Ame National Monument, Lake Mead National Recreation Area or Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. Sharply jagged and tall peaks interrupt the flat and nearly barren desert floor.
Driving to China Ranch Date Farm is similarly picturesque and heavy on the history; part of the way is along an Old Spanish Trail route taken by mule trains traveling on paths connecting Santa Fe and Los Angeles in the 1800s. Driving to China Ranch includes a steep climb up Emigrant Pass in the Nopah mountain range, and it’s painful to imagine the hardships and dangers faced by pioneers. Old Spanish Trail signs remind drivers of the historical connections.
From Las Vegas, travel on state Route 160 in the direction of Pahrump. Before reaching Pahrump, look for a highway sign for Tecopa. That left-hand turn will be onto the Old Spanish Trail Highway. Drive about 30 miles through desert and over mountains, including the sharp turns on Emigrant Pass. Proceed to the edge of the town of Tecopa. Look for a China Ranch sign at the intersection of Old Spanish Trail Highway and Furnace Creek Road.
Turn left and drive a short distance to reach the turnoff to China Ranch Road, where a second sign for China Ranch is found. Turn right on China Ranch Road and get ready for steep, winding and narrow unpaved conditions for about 2 miles before reaching the ranch.
Later in the day, make sure to get back on Old Spanish Trail Highway for the return trip to Las Vegas.
